Showing posts with label SCHNAUZER. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SCHNAUZER. Show all posts

Thursday, September 19, 2013

Basics of Miniature Schnauzer Training



Basics of Miniature Schnauzer Training



It’s essential for Miniature Schnauzer parents like you to know certain basic factors that determine your relationship with your Miniature Schnauzer and can go a long way in training him effectively.



Before you begin training your Miniature Schnauzer, it is absolutely essential that you build a loving bond with him. This is important as it helps you to understand his needs and instincts and also allows your Miniature Schnauzer to have complete trust in you.






Let us see how…….



How To Bond With Your Miniature Schnauzer



Building a bond with your Miniature Schnauzer is the first and the most crucial step involved in training him successfully. As soon as you bring your Miniature Schnauzer home, you must first try to develop a caring and loving relationship with him in order to win his trust and confidence.



When Miniature Schnauzers are secure in the knowledge that they belong to the family, they are more likely to respond better to their owners’ training commands. Just like with any relationship, there must be mutual trust and respect between you and your Miniature Schnauzer.



Trust takes time to develop and respect comes from defining boundaries and treating any breach of those boundaries with firmness and fairness.



Without enforceable limitations, respect can’t be developed. And when there is no respect, building a bond with your Miniature Schnauzer is almost impossible.



4 Golden Rules To Building A Relationship With Your Miniature Schnauzer:



  • Spend quality time together;




  • Take him out in the world and experience life together;




  • Establish and promote a level of mutual respect; and




  • Develop a way of communicating to understand each other’s needs.



Building a bond with your Miniature Schnauzer will not only help you manage him better but will also make your Miniature Schnauzer calm, quiet and an extremely well-adjusted pet.




Love Your Miniature Schnauzer and He Will Love You back



Once you’re successful in building a bond with your Miniature Schnauzer, you can rest assured that training him and teaching him new and clever tricks will be a cakewalk.






How Your Miniature SchnauzerLearns…



Your Miniature Schnauzer’s learning period can be divided into five phases:




The Teaching Phase – This is the phase where you must physically demonstrate to your Miniature Schnauzer exactly what you want him to do.




The Practicing Phase – Practice makes Perfect. Once a lesson is learnt, practice with your Miniature Schnauzer what you have just taught him.




The Generalizing Phase – Here you must continue practicing with your Miniature Schnauzer in different locations and in an environment with a few distractions. You can take your Miniature Schnauzer out for a walk, or to a nearby park and command him to practice whatever you’ve taught him.



Practicing the learned lessons in multiple locations and in the presence of small distractions will help him learn and retain lessons better.




The Testing Phase – Once you’re sure that your Miniature Schnauzer has achieved almost 90% success….he responds correctly almost every time you give a command, you must start testing his accuracy in newer locations with a lot of distractions.



Example: Take him to the local shopping mall and ask him to obey your command. He may not come up with the correct response the very first time you do this, but you must not lose hope.



The idea is to test your Miniature Schnauzer to see how he responds in an environment which is new to him. Set-up a situation where you are in control of the environment and your Miniature Schnauzer.

There are only 2 possibilities:



  • Your Miniature Schnauzer succeeds!!! (Trumpets please!)




  • In case your Miniature Schnauzer fails, re-examine the situation. Review and/or change your training. Then try testing again.




Keep on testing until he succeeds. Follow the rule of the 3 Ps – patience, persistence, praise.


Internalizing PhaseFinally, comes the extremely rewarding phase where your Miniature Schnauzer does everything he is taught to do even without your commands.

Remember:



  • Never scold your Miniature Schnauzer if he fails. It’s not his fault. You have failed as a trainer!




  • You must be patient and persistent for your efforts to show rewards.




  • Appreciate and love your Miniature Schnauzer when he does it right! A little encouragement will work wonders for your Miniature Schnauzer.








Copyright (c) 2009 TrainPetDog.com







Training Your Miniature Schnauzer to Listen to You








Why Won’t My Miniature Schnauzer Listen To Me?



This is a common question that most first-time Miniature Schnauzer owners ask me. Before I answer your question, let me ask you a few instead:



  • Do you use cookies, collars, head halters or clickers to make your Miniature Schnauzerlisten to your commands?




  • Do you have to raise your voice every time you want your Miniature Schnauzerto listen to you?




  • Does your Miniature Schnauzeralways come or sit on command – anytime and anywhere you want him to?




If your answers are mostly in the negative, its time you seriously reconsider your role as a sincere Miniature Schnauzer trainer and an ideal pet parent.






Get Your Miniature Schnauzer To Listen To You



Before you begin any training, you must first establish yourself as the “ALPHA dog” of your family. Your Miniature Schnauzer must know that you’re the leader of the pack and it is YOU who is in charge.



Here is a list of simple DO’s and DONT’s that you must follow if you want to be the Alpha:



  • Always go out or come in through the door first – remember you are the leader;




  • Always eat first – give your Miniature Schnauzer something to eat only after you’ve finished your meal;




  • Don’t circle around your Miniature Schnauzer when he is lying on the floor – make your Miniature Schnauzermove out of your way instead;




  • Don’t let your Miniature Schnauzerset the rules – pay attention to him when you think fit and not whenever he demands;




  • Don’t permit your Miniature Schnauzer to sleep with you in your bed – demarcate his sleeping area clearly.




Once you successfully established yourself as the Alpha, training your Miniature Schnauzer and making him listen will be a lot easier than you can imagine. Remember, if your Miniature Schnauzer does not learn to “listen”, all your training efforts will be in vain!



Does your Miniature Schnauzer know his name? Does your Miniature Schnauzer look at you whenever you call him by his name? This is the first and the most critical step involved in Miniature Schnauzer Training. If your Miniature Schnauzer doesn’t respond to his name, you cannot have his attention for teaching him any other commands.



To make sure that your Miniature Schnauzer recognizes his name, take a treat in your hand and hold it away from your body. Call your Miniature Schnauzer’s name. He is most likely to look at the treat in your hand. Continue calling his name until he turns and looks at your eyes. Give him the treat immediately. Repeat this exercise by holding the treat in the other hand. Once you’re sure that your Miniature Schnauzer has learnt to recognize his name, just call his name and reward him for looking at you by petting or with a hug.



You must understand that Miniature Schnauzers respond far better to positive reinforcement than they do to coercion or force.






Copyright (c) 2009 TrainPetDog.com





Is Your Miniature Schnauzer Potty Trained Enough?




House Training a puppy or adult Miniature Schnauzer is such an essential issue for its owner that even a single exclusive tip turns out to be extremely helpful.



The first step in making your Miniature Schnauzer fit for polite company would be to potty train him. Some see this training as a hassle and some as a challenge.



For me, it is part of bringing up a pet.






There are a few things you need to know before you actually start potty training a puppy or adult Miniature Schnauzer. I enumerate these below:



  • You need to understand your dog’s body language. Watch for signs that will indicate to you when your pet wants to eliminate.




  • If you own puppies, remember that they need to go potty at fairly frequent intervals – as soon as they wake up, after short naps, after play-time, after meals, before and after being crated and finally, before retiring for the night.




  • Take your Miniature Schnauzer for walks at the time that he usually does his potty. Take him out to the yard and then to the same place there every time he needs to answer nature’s call.




  • Praise your Miniature Schnauzer after he eliminates at the right place. Some Miniature Schnauzer owners even give treats to their dogs. But remember to do this every time he does it right. He will relate the rewards to his having “done it right” and zero in on the spot where you want him to defecate regularly.




  • With time, you can try signal training. This is so that you know when your doggie wants to go. You can hang a bell at his level near the door and teach him to push it with his nose or pat it with his paw on his way out.




  • Until your Miniature Schnauzer has been fully potty trained keep him under strict vigilance. Do not let him roam around the house freely.




  • Use a crate. A crate-trained Miniature Schnauzer is usually very happy to get his own den. The advantage of crating is that dogs do not soil the place where they sleep. So, he will naturally not eliminate inside the crate.




  • If you have a small dog and if you live in a high-rise building or in a place that does not have a proper backyard, you can try litter pan training. What you do is create a space for your pet to eliminate in your house itself.




  • Use positive reinforcements while housebreaking puppies or adult dogs. Do not scold or hit him as you will gain nothing by doing that. He will only associate punishment with your return from outside. If you catch him in the act, a stern ‘NO’ or ‘FREEZE’ will do. It will startle the Miniature Schnauzer enough for him to stop pooping.




  • Be prepared to return to a soiled home if you are keeping your Miniature Schnauzer home alone for more than 4 hours as separation anxiety is quite common among home – alone dogs.




  • Accidents will happen. It is unusual for a trained adult Miniature Schnauzer to work against its house training. But medical problems or health disorders may lead to sudden accidents.




  • Many dogs mark their territory. These can be a leg of a table or a particular wall. Intact male and female dogs mark their territories by urinating. Use deodorizers to spray on the places where your Miniature Schnauzer has marked.




  • If you are patient and are ready to accept that house training a dog takes time, even months sometimes, you will end up having a good housetrained Miniature Schnauzer.








Now we will move on to how to potty train puppies and adult dogs.



Potty Training A Puppy:



Irrespective of breeds, housetraining a puppy is considered to be one of the biggest challenges by dog owners. If you think housetraining your puppy simply involves a steady supply of old newspapers, then think again.



A puppy does not develop full control over his bladder until it is over 4 or 5 months old. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this time, puppies eat more, burn more calories and need to eliminate more frequently than an adult Miniature Schnauzer.



After each nap, meal, drink or play, take your puppy to his designated area (indoors or outdoors, wherever you have decided) and stay there until it eliminates. Then bring him to his crate.



Repeat this situation every day until he has developed a habit out of it.






Potty Training An Adult Miniature Schnauzer:



The best way to housetrain an adult Miniature Schnauzer is to begin all over again.



Observe him very closely. Maybe even maintain a diary of where he goes and when. Whether he is pooping when you are home or only when you are outside; whether you can time yourself to be home when he feels the need to go outside.



You can try dog crates, but be careful to introduce him gradually to them.






Remember, commitment, consistency and intelligent use of positive reinforcement will make you the owner of a perfectly housetrained Miniature Schnauzer. Don’t expect miracles. You will only be disappointed.






Get this unique Housetraining guide and start Housebreaking Your Miniature Schnauzer Today.



Copyright (c) 2009 TrainPetDog.com






How Well Is Your Miniature Schnauzer Groomed?








The reason one should groom his/her Miniature Schnauzer is simple – your dog’s physical state influences the way he feels and the way you look at your dog. Extreme cases, where lack of proper care, cleaning and grooming can directly affect the behavior of your Miniature Schnauzer, are not rare.


Proper grooming not only infuses a healthy glow to your dog’s appearance, but also helps develop his self-esteem; while it makes you a very proud parent, when you show off your Miniature Schnauzer to others.
The first step involved in dog grooming is: Brushing!


Brushing has been universally acknowledged by expert dog groomers as the single most important step in grooming.


The benefits of brushing are many. To name a few:




  • Better blood circulation




  • Shinier and healthier coat




  • Better bonding








Even if you know how crucial brushing is for your Dog’s health and well-being, we all know that there is a right way and a wrong way of doing anything. And without doubt, you would like to do everything the RIGHT way when it comes to your Miniature Schnauzer.



Yes, there’s a method to follow while brushing your Miniature Schnauzer.



Here are FIVE steps to successfully brushing your Miniature Schnauzer that will prove to be extremely useful:


  • Brush against the growth of the hair first with a slicker brush and then with a medium or wide-toothed comb.



  • The slicker brush removes all the loose hair and the comb takes care of the tangles.



  • Brush your Miniature Schnauzer along the hair growth and make sure you reach the skin as you brush his way.



  • Then use a flea comb over the coat to get the fleas and remove any remaining tangles. Part the coat and start from the root and then comb through.



  • If your Dog’s paw pads are hairy, then clip them using electric clippers. Do not clip the hair in between the pads. Clip only the excess hair.



Brush your Dog’s hairs to prevent it from matting. Matting can be a very painful experience.



Regular brushing untangles the matted hairs on your Dog’s coat. Since this is a risky job to do, the best way out is to prevent them from forming in the first place. And doing this is simple: just brush and comb your Miniature Schnauzer regularly. If and when you see any mats or tangles, use a detangle solution and a medium-toothed comb.



Don’t wait until your Miniature Schnauzer is dirty or matted to introduce him to grooming. That would make him associate the experience with unpleasantness. Moreover, many dogs learn to see their routine brushing as an alternate form of petting, i.e. another source of affection and attention.







Copyright (c) 2009 TrainPetDog.com


Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Zwergschnauzer MINIATURE SCHNAUZER










Zwergschnauzer MINIATURE SCHNAUZER

FCI Standard N° 183 / 18.04.2007/ GB


TRANSLATION: Mrs C. Seidler.


COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: Germany.


DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE ORIGINAL VALID STANDARD: 06.03.07.


UTILISATION: House and Companion Dog


CLASSIFICATION FCI : Group 2 Pinscher and Schnauzer- Molossoid breeds – Swiss Mountain and Cattle Dogs and other breeds.
Section 1 Pinscher and Schnauzer type.
Without working trial.


BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY : Around the turn of the century a dwarf Schnauzer from the Frankfurt/Main area went on his way, then still described as a rough haired Zwergpinscher (Miniature Pinscher). Due to the different shapes, sizes and types and the muddle of harsh, soft and silky coat textures, it was no easy task to evolve a small dog with the appearance and the characteristic qualities of his bigger brother, the Schnauzer.


GENERAL APPEARANCE : Small, strong, stocky rather than slim, rough coated, elegant. A reduced image of the Schnauzer without the drawback of a dwarfed appearance.


IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS :
Square build in which the height at the withers is nearly equal to the body length.


The length of the head (measured from the tip of the nose to the occiput) corresponds to half the length of the topline (measured from the withers to the set on of the tail).


BEHAVIOUR/TEMPERAMENT : His nature is similar to that of the Schnauzer and is determined by the temperament and the behaviour of a small dog. Intelligence, fearlessness, endurance and alertness make the Miniature Schnauzer an agreeable house dog as well as a watch and companion dog which can be kept even in a small appartment without problems.


HEAD CRANIAL REGION
Skull : Strong, long without markedly protruding occiput. The head should be in keeping with the dog’s force. The forehead is flat, without wrinkles and parallel to the bridge of nose.
Stop: Appears well defined due to the brows


FACIAL REGION
Nose : Well developed nose leather, always black.
Muzzle : Ending in a blunt wedge. Bridge of nose straight.
Lips : Black, smoot and tight-fitting to the jaws. Corners of lips closed.
Jaws/Teeth : Strong upper and lower jaw. The complete scissor bite (42 pure white teeth according to the dentition formula), is strongly developed and firmly closing. The chewing muscles are strongly developed but the cheeks must not interfere with the reactangular shape of the head (with the beard).
Eyes: Medium sized, oval, facing foreward, dark with lively expression. Eyelids close fitting.
Ears : Drop ears, set high, V-shaped with inner edges lying close to the cheeks, evenly carried , turned forward towards temples. Folds parallel, should not be above the top of the skull..


NECK : The strong, muscular neck is nobly arched, blending smoothly into the withers.
Strongly set on, slim, nobly curved, corresponding to the dog’s force. Throat skin tight-fitting without folds.


BODY
Topline : Slightly sloping from withers towards rear.
Withers: Forming the highest point in topline.
Back: Strong, short and taut.
Loins : Short, strong and deep. The distance from the last rib to the hip is short to make the dog appear compact.
Croup : Slightly rounded and imperceptibly blending into tail set on.
Chest : Moderately broad, oval in diameter, reaching to the elbows. The forechest is distinctly marked by the point of the sternum.
Underline and belly : Flanks not too tucked up, forming a well curved line with the underside of the ribcage.


TAIL : Natural; a sabre or sickle carriage is sought after.


LIMBS FOREQUARTERS : Seen from the front, the front legs are strong, straight and not close together. Seen from the side, the forearms are straight.
Shoulders: The shoulder blade lies close against the rib cage and is well muscled on both sides of the shoulder bone, protruding over the points of the thoracic vertebrae. As sloping as possible and well laid back, forming an angle of appr. 50° to the horizontal.
Upper arm: Lying close to the body, strong and well muscled, forming an angle of 95° to 105° to the shoulder blade.
Elbows: Close fitting, turning neither in nor out.
Forearm : Viewed from all sides, completely straight, strongly developed and well muscled.
Carpal joint: Strong, firm, barely standing out against the structure of the forearm.
Pastern : Seen from the front, vertical. Seen from the side slightly sloping towards the ground, strong and slightly springy.
Forefeet : Short and round. Toes well-knit and arched (cat foot) with short dark nails and resistant pads.


HINDQUARTERS : Standing obliquely when seen from the side, standing parallel but not close together when seen from the rear.
Upper thigh : Moderately long, broad and strongly muscled.
Stifle :Turning neither in nor out.
Lower thigh : Long, strong and sinewy, running into a strong hock.
Hock : Very well angulated, strong, firm, turning neither in nor out.
Metatarsus : Short, vertical to the ground.
Hind feet : Toes short, arched and well-knit. Nails short and black.


GAIT/MOVEMENT: Flexible, elegant, agile, free and ground covering. The forelegs swinging as far forward as possible, the hind legs, ground covering and springy, provide the necessary drive. The front leg of one side and the hind leg of the other side move forward at the same time. The back, the ligaments and the joints are firm.


SKIN : Tight fitting over the whole body.


COAT HAIR : The coat should be wiry, harsh and dense. It consists of a dense undercoat and a not too short top coat, lying close to the body. The top coat is rough and sufficiently long to allow the checking of its texture; it is neither bristly nor wavy. The hair on the limbs tends to be less harsh. Coat short on forehead and ears. Typical characteristics are the not too soft beard on the muzzle and the bushy eyebrows which slightly shade the eyes.


COLOUR
Pure black with black undercoat.
Pepper and Salt.
Black/Silver.
Pure white with white undercoat.


When breeding Pepper and Salt, the aim is a medium shading with evenly distributed, well pigmented, pepper colouring and grey undercoat. The shades from dark iron grey to silver grey are all permitted. In all colour variations there must be a dark mask, which should adapt harmoniously to the respective colour. Distinct light markings on head, chest and limbs are undesirable.
For the Black/Silver colour, the aim in breeding is a black top coat with black undercoat, white markings over the eyes, on the cheeks, at the beard, at the throat, in two divided triangles at the front of the chest, on the front pasterns, on the feet, on the inside of the hind legs and around the anus. The forehead, the neck and the outer sides of the ears should be black like the top coat.


SIZE AND WEIGHT
Height at withers Dogs and bitches between 30 and 35 cm.


Weight Dogs and bitches approximately 4 to 8 kg.


FAULTS : Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.
Particularly:
Heavy or round skull.
Wrinkles on forehead.
Short, pointed or narrow muzzle.
Pincer bite.
Strongly protruding cheeks or cheekbones.
Light, too large or round eyes.
Low set, too long or unevenly carried ears.
Throatiness.
Dewlap, narrow crest or neck.
Too long, tucked up or soft back.
Roach back.
Croup falling away.
Tail set inclined towards head.
Long feet.
Pacing movement.
Too short, too long, soft, wavy, shaggy, silky coat.
Brown undercoat.
A black trace on the back or a black saddle.
In Black/Silver not clearly separated triangles on the chest.
Over- or undersize up to 1 cm.


SERIOUS FAULTS :
Clumsy or light build. Too low or too high on leg.
Inverse sexual type (e.g. doggy bitch).
Elbows turning out.
Straight or open hocked hindlegs.
Lower thigh too long.
Hocks turning inwards.
Rear pastern too short.
White or spotted coat in black or pepper and salt dogs.
Patchy coat in the colours black/silver and white.
Over- or undersize by more than 1 cm but less than 2 cm.
DISQUALIFYING FAULTS :
Shy, aggressive, vicious, exaggeratedly suspicious or nervous behaviour.
Malformation of any kind.
Lack of breed type.
Faulty mouth, such as over- or undershot or wry mouth.
Severe faults in individual parts, such as faults in construction, coat and colour.
Over- or undersize by more than 2 cm.


Any dog clearly showing physical or behavioural abnormalities shall be disqualified


NB : Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.












Zwergpinscher MINIATURE PINSCHER

FCI Standard N° 185 / 18.04.2007/ GB


TRANSLATION: Mrs C. Seidler.


COUNTRY OF ORIGIN : Germany.


DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE ORIGINAL VALID STANDARD : 06.03.07.


UTILISATION : House and Companion Dog.


CLASSIFICATION FCI : Group 2 Pinscher and Schnauzer- Molossian breeds – Swiss Mountain and Cattle Dogs and other breeds.
Section 1 Pinscher and Schnauzer type.
Without working trial.


BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY : Miniature Pinschers were kept in large numbers around the turn of the century already and the Stud Book for 1925 records no less than 1300 entries. Like with the German Pinscher, from the numerous colour variations, only the colours black with lighter markings and solid red to red-brown were thorough-bred.


GENERAL APPEARANCE : The Miniature Pinscher is a reduced image of the German Pinscher without the draw-backs of a dwarfed appearance. His elegant square build is clearly visible due to his short smooth coat.


IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS :
The ratio from length to height shall make his build appear as square as possible.
The length of the head (measured fom the tip of the nose to the occiput) corresponds to half the length of the topline (measured from the withers to the set on of the tail).


BEHAVIOUR/TEMPERAMENT : Lively, spirited, self assured and evenly tempered. These qualities make him an agreeable family and companion dog.


HEAD CRANIAL REGION
Skull : Strong, elongated without markedly protruding occiput. The forehead is flat without wrinkles, running parallel to the bridge of nose.
Stop: Slight, yet clearly defined.


FACIAL REGION
Nose: Noseleather well developed and black.
Muzzle: Ending in a blunt wedge. Bridge of nose straight.
Lips: Black, smooth and tight-fitting to the jaw. Corners of lips closed.
Jaws/Teeth : Strong upper and lower jaw. The complete scissor bite (42 pure white teeth according to the dentition formula), is strong and firmly closing. The chewing muscles are strongly developed without pronounced cheeks interfering with the smooth outline.
Eyes: Dark, oval, with black pigmented close fitting eyelids.
Ears : Prick ears ; drop ears, set high, V-shaped with the inner edges lying close to the cheeks, turned forward towards temples. Folds parallel, should not be above the top of the skull.


NECK : Nobly curved, not too short. Blending smoothly into the withers without any marked set on. Dry without dewlap or throatiness. Throat skin tight-fitting without folds.


BODY
Topline: Slightly sloping from withers towards rear.
Withers: Forming the highest point in topline.
Back: Strong, short and taut.
Loins: Strong. The distance from last rib to hip is short to make the dog appear compact.
Croup: Slightly rounded, imperceptibly blending into tail set on.
Chest: Moderately broad, oval in diameter, reaching to elbows. The forechest is distinctly marked by the point of the sternum.
Underline and belly : Flanks not too tucked up, forming a nicely curved line with the underside of the brisket.


TAIL: Natural; a sabre or sickle carriage is sought after.


LIMBS FOREQUARTERS : Seen from the front, the front legs are strong, straight and not close together. Seen from the side, the forearms are straight.
Shoulders: The shoulder blade lies close against the ribcage and is well muscled on both sides of the shoulder bone, protruding over the points of the thoracic vertebrae. As sloping as possible and well laid back, forming an angle of appr. 50° to the horizontal.
Upper arm: Lying close to the body, strong and well muscled, forming an angle of 95° to 100° to the shoulder blade.
Elbows: Correctly fitting, turning neither in nor out.
Forearm: Strongly developed and well muscled. Completely straight seen from the front and the side.
Carpal joint: Strong and firm.
Pastern: Strong and springy. Seen from the front,vertical, seen from the side, slightly sloping towards the ground.
Forefeet: Short and round, toes well-knit and arched (cat feet), pads resistant, nails short, black and strong.


HINDQUARTERS : Standing obliquely, when seen from the side, standing parallel but not close together seen from the rear.
Upper thigh: Moderately long, broad, strongly muscled.
Stifle: Turning neither in nor out.
Lower thigh: Long and strong, sinewy, running into a strong hock.
Hock: Markedly angulated, strong, firm, turning neither in nor out.
Metatarsus : Vertical to the ground.
Hind feet: Somewhat longer than forefeet. Toes well-knit and arched. Nails short and black.


GAIT/MOVEMENT : The Miniature Pinscher is a trotter. His back remains firm and rather steady in movement. The movement is harmonious, sure, powerful and uninhibited with good length of stride. Typical of the trot is a ground covering, relaxed, fluent movement with strong drive and free front extension.


SKIN : Tight fitting over the whole body.


COAT HAIR : Short and dense, smooth, close and shiny without bald patches.


COLOUR
Self coloured : Deer red, reddish-brown to dark red brown.
Black and Tan : Lacquer black with red or brown markings.
The aim is for markings as dark, as rich and as clearly defined as possible. The markings are distributed as follows: Above the eyes, at the underside of the throat, on the pasterns, on the feet, at the inside of the hind legs and under the root of the tail. Two even, clearly separated triangles on the chest.


SIZE AND WEIGHT
Height at withers : Dogs and bitches: 25 to 30 cm.
Weight : Dogs and bitches: 4 to 6 kg.


FAULTS : Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.
Particularly:
Clumsy or light in build. Too low or too high on leg.
Heavy or round skull.
Wrinkles on forehead.
Short, pointed or narrow muzzle.
Pincer bite.
Light, too small or too large eyes.
Ears set low or very long, unevenly carried.
Throatiness.
Too long, tucked up or soft back.
Roach back.
Croup falling away.
Long feet.
Pacing movement.
Hackney gait.
Thin coat.
Roans; black trace on the back, dark saddle and lightened or pale coat.
Over- or undersize up to 1 cm.


SERIOUS FAULTS :
Lack of sexual type (i.e. doggy bitch).
Light appearance
Apple head.
Lines of head not parallel.
Elbows turning out.
Hindlegs standing under the body.
Straight or open hocked hindlegs.
Hocks turning out.
Over- or undersize by more than 1 cm but less than 2 cm.


DISQUALIFYING FAULTS :
Shy, aggressive, vicious, markedly suspicious, or nervous
behaviour.
Malformation of any kind.
Lack of breed type.
Faults in mouth, such as over- or undershot or wry mouth.
Severe faults in individual parts, such as faults in structure, coat or colour.
Over- or undersize by more than 2 cm.


Any dog clearly showing physical or behavioural abnormalities shall be disqualified.


NB: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.