Guard Dog Training

My sister worked at a Guard Dog Training facility in Arizona before she moved to Connecticut.  I went to see her at work when I was visiting.

There was a big outer fence with barbed wire surrounding the facility, an inner fence, rows of kennel cages, and a house in the middle of it all.  I saw Dobermans, German Shepherds, Rottweiler’s, and a couple Great Danes.  As I walked around the kennel some dogs seemed to dislike my presence.  One was biting the chain linked fence and was yelled at.  I would think there have been broken teeth because of that.

Upon entering the house there were dogs in every room.  Even the bathroom!  Several of the dogs were free to roam about the house.  I was new to them so they came to greet me.  What do you do when you are told “Don’t be afraid, they can sense fear!”?? 

·         Do you put your hand out, or not? 

·         Do you make eye contact, or look away?

·         Do you stay standing, or sit down?   

·         Do you grab a towel to wipe the sweat from your brow, or just remain still? 

In any case, they didn’t harm me. 

I was told they raise and train guard dogs for individuals, businesses, etc.  They sell their own dogs and current owners will bring their dog in to have them trained.  The presence of a dog can stop bad people from doing bad things.

Guard dogs are a great deterrent used in the military, law enforcement, home protection, etc.  Not all the dogs being worked with would become guard dogs.  Will the dog retreat at a raised hand?  Are they aggressive or passive?  Are they obedient?  And so on.  This Rottweiler was one of the top dogs and was going to the military.

I observed the trainers “agitate” the dogs.  The trainer will give a command and the dog will become aggressive toward the intruder.  The dogs were wagging their tails. 

When agitating these 2 German Shepards you can see one became aggressive and the other turned away.  The one that turned away did not end up becoming a guard dog. 

There were dogs that were not people friendly.  My sister said this dog did not like men but was fine around women.  She said it was a great dog but overall not a people dog so was going to be a “junk yard” dog.  A dog that would roam free behind a fenced in area to protect whatever was behind the fence. 

My favorite dog was this one named Cowboy.  He was big and very friendly.  I watched him as they agitated him.  I learned that he would not be as expensive as many of the other dogs because of his smile …

Once given a command the demeanor of these trained guard dogs change.  The first thing I noticed was their smile.  It is intimidating when a dog becomes aggressive and smiles at you with all of their pearly white teeth showing.  That smile may be all it takes to stop a bad guy so big dog smiles command more money.  I was still sold on Cowboy …  

Observation:   As these guard dogs were working and doing their job, they were smiling, wagging their tails, and seemed to enjoy their work.  Could there be a lesson there for us??

Crate Training Dog

Some people think that crate training dog is cruel but actually many dogs like dens – so to the dog, the crate becomes their den – their comfort zone – the area in the house that is their spot – their den. Some trainers feel that using an indoor kennel crate for a puppy is somehow cruel. Dogs like to feel secure and an indoor kennel crate will satisfy this desire.

Consider safety issues such as a fenced-in yard or a crate or gated space inside where your puppy can be kept when you cannot actively monitor it. Remember that dogs like den-like places and that crate training dog will serve this purpose. If your mat training is not yet strong enough, then you can use a crate until your mat training is strong enough.

As a rule a dog should not be in a crate more than five hours unless it’s during the time you go to sleep at night where they will be in there all night. To effectively house train your dog you must have a crate, if you didn’t purchase one when you brought your puppy home get one as soon as possible. If you are away during the day, put your dog in his crate, with his toys.

You’ll be using a crate to housebreak your puppy, but even older dogs find the security of their own “den” comforting. You can also move a crate from room to room so the dog can be around the family. Please remember to let your puppy or adult dog out of the crate as much as possible
To interact with the family.

If your puppy spends time in a crate, which he should at first, I do not recommend putting paper in his crate, you want the dog to not use his den as a bath room. If your dog chews while you are away from home, make sure he has toys and something to chew on. So starting from now, spend more time with your dog. Crate training a dog can be a good experience for all.

It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. So, in theory, if you keep a dog in a crate for small periods of time, they will learn to hold it. Using a crate for your dog training.

It is important not to let the puppy associate the crate with anything negative, if you intend him to use it and be happy there. Once you have purchased your new puppy’s crate and have it all prepared, it’s time to introduce him to it. Do purchase the proper crate for your dog and teach the dog to use it.

Tim Tanis is an independent web publisher. For info on Crate Training Dog. [http://www.cratetrainingdog.articlesforyou.biz]

Basics of Miniature Schnauzer Training

Basics of Miniature Schnauzer Training

It’s essential for Miniature Schnauzer parents like you to know certain basic factors that determine your relationship with your Miniature Schnauzer and can go a long way in training him effectively.

Before you begin training your Miniature Schnauzer, it is absolutely essential that you build a loving bond with him. This is important as it helps you to understand his needs and instincts and also allows your Miniature Schnauzer to have complete trust in you.

Know more about Miniature Schnauzer care from this free mini course

Let us see how…….

How To Bond With Your Miniature Schnauzer

Building a bond with your Miniature Schnauzer is the first and the most crucial step involved in training him successfully. As soon as you bring your Miniature Schnauzer home, you must first try to develop a caring and loving relationship with him in order to win his trust and confidence.

When Miniature Schnauzers are secure in the knowledge that they belong to the family, they are more likely to respond better to their owners’ training commands. Just like with any relationship, there must be mutual trust and respect between you and your Miniature Schnauzer.

Trust takes time to develop and respect comes from defining boundaries and treating any breach of those boundaries with firmness and fairness.

Without enforceable limitations, respect can’t be developed. And when there is no respect, building a bond with your Miniature Schnauzer is almost impossible.

4 Golden Rules To Building A Relationship With Your Miniature Schnauzer:

• Spend quality time together;

• Take him out in the world and experience life together;

• Establish and promote a level of mutual respect; and

• Develop a way of communicating to understand each other’s needs.

Building a bond with your Miniature Schnauzer will not only help you manage him better but will also make your Miniature Schnauzer calm, quiet and an extremely well-adjusted pet.

Love Your Miniature Schnauzer and He Will Love You back

Once you’re successful in building a bond with your Miniature Schnauzer, you can rest assured that training him and teaching him new and clever tricks will be a cakewalk.

Learn how to bond with your Miniature Schnauzer with this free mini course.

How Your Miniature SchnauzerLearns…

Your Miniature Schnauzer’s learning period can be divided into five phases:

The Teaching Phase – This is the phase where you must physically demonstrate to your Miniature Schnauzer exactly what you want him to do.

The Practicing Phase – Practice makes Perfect. Once a lesson is learnt, practice with your Miniature Schnauzer what you have just taught him.

The Generalizing Phase – Here you must continue practicing with your Miniature Schnauzer in different locations and in an environment with a few distractions. You can take your Miniature Schnauzer out for a walk, or to a nearby park and command him to practice whatever you’ve taught him.

Practicing the learned lessons in multiple locations and in the presence of small distractions will help him learn and retain lessons better.

The Testing Phase – Once you’re sure that your Miniature Schnauzer has achieved almost 90% success….he responds correctly almost every time you give a command, you must start testing his accuracy in newer locations with a lot of distractions.

Example: Take him to the local shopping mall and ask him to obey your command. He may not come up with the correct response the very first time you do this, but you must not lose hope.

The idea is to test your Miniature Schnauzer to see how he responds in an environment which is new to him. Set-up a situation where you are in control of the environment and your Miniature Schnauzer.

There are only 2 possibilities:

• Your Miniature Schnauzer succeeds!!! (Trumpets please!)

• In case your Miniature Schnauzer fails, re-examine the situation. Review and/or change your training. Then try testing again.

Keep on testing until he succeeds. Follow the rule of the 3 Ps – patience, persistence, praise.

Internalizing Phase – Finally, comes the extremely rewarding phase where your Miniature Schnauzer does everything he is taught to do even without your commands.

Remember:

• Never scold your Miniature Schnauzer if he fails. It’s not his fault. You have failed as a trainer!

• You must be patient and persistent for your efforts to show rewards.

• Appreciate and love your Miniature Schnauzer when he does it right! A little encouragement will work wonders for your Miniature Schnauzer.

• 
  Miniature Schnauzer Training is easy when you do it right.

Learn how to train your Miniature Schnauzer better with this free mini course.

Copyright (c) 2009 TrainPetDog.com

Training Your Miniature Schnauzer to Listen to You

Why Won’t My Miniature Schnauzer Listen To Me?

This is a common question that most first-time Miniature Schnauzer owners ask me. Before I answer your question, let me ask you a few instead:

• Do you use cookies, collars, head halters or clickers to make your Miniature Schnauzerlisten to your commands?

• Do you have to raise your voice every time you want your Miniature Schnauzerto listen to you?

• Does your Miniature Schnauzeralways come or sit on command – anytime and anywhere you want him to?

If your answers are mostly in the negative, its time you seriously reconsider your role as a sincere Miniature Schnauzer trainer and an ideal pet parent.

Learn how to bond with your Miniature Schnauzer with this free mini course.

Get Your Miniature Schnauzer To Listen To You

Before you begin any training, you must first establish yourself as the “ALPHA dog” of your family. Your Miniature Schnauzer must know that you’re the leader of the pack and it is YOU who is in charge.

Here is a list of simple DO’s and DONT’s that you must follow if you want to be the Alpha:

• Always go out or come in through the door first – remember you are the leader;

• Always eat first – give your Miniature Schnauzer something to eat only after you’ve finished your meal;

• Don’t circle around your Miniature Schnauzer when he is lying on the floor – make your Miniature Schnauzermove out of your way instead;

• Don’t let your Miniature Schnauzerset the rules – pay attention to him when you think fit and not whenever he demands;

• Don’t permit your Miniature Schnauzer to sleep with you in your bed – demarcate his sleeping area clearly.

Once you successfully established yourself as the Alpha, training your Miniature Schnauzer and making him listen will be a lot easier than you can imagine. Remember, if your Miniature Schnauzer does not learn to “listen”, all your training efforts will be in vain!

Does your Miniature Schnauzer know his name? Does your Miniature Schnauzer look at you whenever you call him by his name? This is the first and the most critical step involved in Miniature Schnauzer Training. If your Miniature Schnauzer doesn’t respond to his name, you cannot have his attention for teaching him any other commands.

To make sure that your Miniature Schnauzer recognizes his name, take a treat in your hand and hold it away from your body. Call your Miniature Schnauzer’s name. He is most likely to look at the treat in your hand. Continue calling his name until he turns and looks at your eyes. Give him the treat immediately. Repeat this exercise by holding the treat in the other hand. Once you’re sure that your Miniature Schnauzer has learnt to recognize his name, just call his name and reward him for looking at you by petting or with a hug.

You must understand that Miniature Schnauzers respond far better to positive reinforcement than they do to coercion or force.

Learn how to train your Miniature Schnauzer better with this free mini course.

Copyright (c) 2009 TrainPetDog.com

Is Your Miniature Schnauzer Potty Trained Enough?

House Training a puppy or adult Miniature Schnauzer is such an essential issue for its owner that even a single exclusive tip turns out to be extremely helpful.

The first step in making your Miniature Schnauzer fit for polite company would be to potty train him. Some see this training as a hassle and some as a challenge.

For me, it is part of bringing up a pet.

Click here to subscribe to a FREE course on housetraining puppies and dogs.

There are a few things you need to know before you actually start potty training a puppy or adult Miniature Schnauzer. I enumerate these below:

• You need to understand your dog’s body language. Watch for signs that will indicate to you when your pet wants to eliminate.

• If you own puppies, remember that they need to go potty at fairly frequent intervals – as soon as they wake up, after short naps, after play-time, after meals, before and after being crated and finally, before retiring for the night.

• Take your Miniature Schnauzer for walks at the time that he usually does his potty. Take him out to the yard and then to the same place there every time he needs to answer nature’s call.

• Praise your Miniature Schnauzer after he eliminates at the right place. Some Miniature Schnauzer owners even give treats to their dogs. But remember to do this every time he does it right. He will relate the rewards to his having “done it right” and zero in on the spot where you want him to defecate regularly.

• With time, you can try signal training. This is so that you know when your doggie wants to go. You can hang a bell at his level near the door and teach him to push it with his nose or pat it with his paw on his way out.

• Until your Miniature Schnauzer has been fully potty trained keep him under strict vigilance. Do not let him roam around the house freely.

• Use a crate. A crate-trained Miniature Schnauzer is usually very happy to get his own den. The advantage of crating is that dogs do not soil the place where they sleep. So, he will naturally not eliminate inside the crate.

• If you have a small dog and if you live in a high-rise building or in a place that does not have a proper backyard, you can try litter pan training. What you do is create a space for your pet to eliminate in your house itself.

• Use positive reinforcements while housebreaking puppies or adult dogs. Do not scold or hit him as you will gain nothing by doing that. He will only associate punishment with your return from outside. If you catch him in the act, a stern ‘NO’ or ‘FREEZE’ will do. It will startle the Miniature Schnauzer enough for him to stop pooping.

• Be prepared to return to a soiled home if you are keeping your Miniature Schnauzer home alone for more than 4 hours as separation anxiety is quite common among home – alone dogs.

• Accidents will happen. It is unusual for a trained adult Miniature Schnauzer to work against its house training. But medical problems or health disorders may lead to sudden accidents.

• Many dogs mark their territory. These can be a leg of a table or a particular wall. Intact male and female dogs mark their territories by urinating. Use deodorizers to spray on the places where your Miniature Schnauzer has marked.

• If you are patient and are ready to accept that house training a dog takes time, even months sometimes, you will end up having a good housetrained Miniature Schnauzer.

Click here to subscribe to a FREE course on house training puppies and dogs.

Now we will move on to how to potty train puppies and adult dogs.

Potty Training A Puppy:

Irrespective of breeds, housetraining a puppy is considered to be one of the biggest challenges by dog owners. If you think housetraining your puppy simply involves a steady supply of old newspapers, then think again.

A puppy does not develop full control over his bladder until it is over 4 or 5 months old. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this time, puppies eat more, burn more calories and need to eliminate more frequently than an adult Miniature Schnauzer.

After each nap, meal, drink or play, take your puppy to his designated area (indoors or outdoors, wherever you have decided) and stay there until it eliminates. Then bring him to his crate.

Repeat this situation every day until he has developed a habit out of it.

Click here to subscribe to a FREE course on housebreaking a puppy.

Potty Training An Adult Miniature Schnauzer:

The best way to housetrain an adult Miniature Schnauzer is to begin all over again.

Observe him very closely. Maybe even maintain a diary of where he goes and when. Whether he is pooping when you are home or only when you are outside; whether you can time yourself to be home when he feels the need to go outside.

You can try dog crates, but be careful to introduce him gradually to them.

Click here to subscribe to a FREE course on potty training a dog.

Remember, commitment, consistency and intelligent use of positive reinforcement will make you the owner of a perfectly housetrained Miniature Schnauzer. Don’t expect miracles. You will only be disappointed.

Get this FREE course on potty training a dog.

Get this unique Housetraining guide and start Housebreaking Your Miniature Schnauzer Today.

Copyright (c) 2009 TrainPetDog.com

How Well Is Your Miniature Schnauzer Groomed?

The reason one should groom his/her Miniature Schnauzer is simple – your dog’s physical state influences the way he feels and the way you look at your dog. Extreme cases, where lack of proper care, cleaning and grooming can directly affect the behavior of your Miniature Schnauzer, are not rare.

Proper grooming not only infuses a healthy glow to your dog’s appearance, but also helps develop his self-esteem; while it makes you a very proud parent, when you show off your Miniature Schnauzer to others.
The first step involved in dog grooming is: Brushing!

Brushing has been universally acknowledged by expert dog groomers as the single most important step in grooming.

The benefits of brushing are many. To name a few:

• 
  
  Better blood circulation
  
  



• 
  
  Shinier and healthier coat
  
  



• 
  
  Better bonding
  
  

Subscribe to this FREE dog grooming mini course and learn more about brushing and combing and other grooming tools and their applications.

Even if you know how crucial brushing is for your Dog’s health and well-being, we all know that there is a right way and a wrong way of doing anything. And without doubt, you would like to do everything the RIGHT way when it comes to your Miniature Schnauzer.

Yes, there’s a method to follow while brushing your Miniature Schnauzer.

Here are FIVE steps to successfully brushing your Miniature Schnauzer that will prove to be extremely useful:

• Brush against the growth of the hair first with a slicker brush and then with a medium or wide-toothed comb.
  
  



• The slicker brush removes all the loose hair and the comb takes care of the tangles.
  
  



• Brush your Miniature Schnauzer along the hair growth and make sure you reach the skin as you brush his way.
  
  



• Then use a flea comb over the coat to get the fleas and remove any remaining tangles. Part the coat and start from the root and then comb through.
  
  



• If your Dog’s paw pads are hairy, then clip them using electric clippers. Do not clip the hair in between the pads. Clip only the excess hair.

Brush your Dog’s hairs to prevent it from matting. Matting can be a very painful experience.

Regular brushing untangles the matted hairs on your Dog’s coat. Since this is a risky job to do, the best way out is to prevent them from forming in the first place. And doing this is simple: just brush and comb your Miniature Schnauzer regularly. If and when you see any mats or tangles, use a detangle solution and a medium-toothed comb.

Don’t wait until your Miniature Schnauzer is dirty or matted to introduce him to grooming. That would make him associate the experience with unpleasantness. Moreover, many dogs learn to see their routine brushing as an alternate form of petting, i.e. another source of affection and attention.

Subscribe to this FREE dog grooming mini course and start Grooming your Dog all by yourself right from the comfort of your home Today.

Copyright (c) 2009 TrainPetDog.com

Dog Behavior Training Site Blog

Abused Shiba Inu

It completely disgusts me what people are capable of doing. A twenty year old woman (not the description I’d like to use) in Boulder, CO taped a puppy upside down to the refrigerator because she was mad at her boyfriend for bringing the dog home.
READ ORIGINAL STORY The Boulder police took the puppy to the Boulder Valley Humane Society and yesterday the organization’s director reported that the dog (Rex) was in good health. The puppy turned out to be two years old rather than eight months as originally thought. It was also determined that the dog had been taped upside down during his ordeal.

Read more about REX

Dog Chewing Shoe

Your dog has an innate need to chew, it terribly fun (for the dog), it passes time, and sometimes it tastes pretty darn good too (again, at least to the dog). From your perspective, however, this can quickly get to be extremely annoying; even if the first time puppy did it it was kind of cute or amusing or both.

For proper Dog Behavior Training it certainly helps if you as the trainer understand why your pet does what they do. So why does a dog chew? Well for starters think of it as a stress reliever the way some people have a cocktail or are driven to comfort food. Yes, dogs get anxious, they most certainly get bored and often times are under exercised so they have excess energy to burn.

Here’s Some Things to Stop Your Dog From Chewing:

Dog proof or Puppy Proof your residence. You may very well have the best behaved pet ever, still, there is no apparent reason to test their self-control, remember, dogs investigate the planet with their mouths. Managing your own belongings means taking whatever you don’t want them to have in their mouth, and putting it in an unavailable place to them. Consider size and dexterity when deciding what is out of reach. Can your dog jump onto something else to reach the desired object? How tall are they when standing on their back legs? General chew items in the home consist of trash, shoes, books, clothing, and small plastic appliances (cameras, cell phones, and remote controls).All food needs to be put securely away. Do not leave snacks on low tables or even counter tops it is amazing how determined a dog can be with food to be had. Put these temptations into containers or the pantry.

Keep your dog from discovering the giddiness of illegal chewing. The more times they manage to procure a mouthful of a prohibited chew item (chair-leg, slipper) the more readily your pet will go for these items in future. If possible keep them from chewing your things in the first place; it will be a lot easier for doggie to understand what you expect of them. This may mean confining them in a dog-proofed area until you are positive they possess an understanding of the house rules.

Make a LOUD NOISE when you catch them CHEWING ILLEGALLY! Clap your hands and give them a resounding NO! or make a loud “aaat-aaat-aaat” vocalization. Immediately give the dog an appetizing and dog-appropriate alternative (a rawhide bone or other chew toy).The moment your dog takes it with their teeth, praise them long and lavishly. This will make them understand that chewing “their” toys means praise from you, but chewing your stuff is a huge NO-NO.

Dog behavior training takes time, patience and consistency. Still if you follow these guidelines you will find your pet will quickly adopt to his/her chew toys. Not only that you will begin your Alpha Dog position and your dog need to understand and accept that – you will both be happier. We will do more on that the next posting. This will keep you busy enough if your dog is chewing your stuff.

Visit the Dog Behavior Training Site Now

Is it time to take your dog training back to the drawing board?

Is it time to take your dog training back to the drawing board?

August 26, 2013 at 4:16 am Leave a comment

Have you ever had a moment in your dog training where you realized you were missing a major piece of the puzzle? That there is one piece seemingly holding you back from reaching the results you wanted?

Maybe you’re even feeling that way at the moment.

If you are, then maybe it’s time to take your training back to the drawing board. I’m talking of course about the subject of “re-training.”

Re-training comes from the realization that what you trained the first time isn’t working for you now. This takes guts to admit, because no one likes to feel that we need to start over. Instead, try thinking of re-training as a fresh start; a new beginning if you will. Imagine how it may change your performance for the better.

Feeling a bit more motivated? Great! Now let’s delve into the question that is re-training.

Let’s take a quick moment to clarify that for re-training to be successful, you must get the result you want. Why? Because otherwise you end up right back where you started!

Take my sheltie Dice for example. I’ve attempted to “re-train” her teeter performance several times since she has a tendency to leave the board early, sometimes incurring faults. My quick solution to this problem was to tell her “down” while she was on the board to encourage her to ride it to the ground. Sure, this worked for a little while, but then she started leaving early again. Then I decided to teach her to keep all four paws on the board until I gave her a release word. This worked for maybe a trial or two, but I didn’t enforce this new behaviour in the ring and so that deteriorated as well. Basically I wasn’t truly committed to re-training, and hence I was destined to end up back in the same place.

The first consideration you have to make when deciding whether or not to re-train a certain aspect of your performance, is how much you really want it to change. Imagine if you had a scale from 1-10 (10 being you desperately need the behaviour to change). Where do you fall on this scale? How much are you willing to invest in getting that coveted end result? Because I can tell you now, that part way doesn’t get results. When it comes to re-training, you’re either all in, or you will struggle to really change it. So are you in or are you out?

Decided to commit to change?

Now comes the planning stage. I know some people like to plan out every little training detail when it comes to things like this. I’m honestly not the planning type. Somehow brining a notebook to my training session just seems to suck all the fun out of it for me. Instead, I tend to focus on visualizing my end result and then the steps that I think will get me there.

Here’s a personal example that I’m going through at the moment. I’ve decided recently to temporarily abandon my running dogwalk project with my border collie Heist and instead teach him a stopped contact. It has gotten to the point where I’ve realized that the amount of time I’m spending trying to train one obstacle is limiting my time training things that are arguably more important. So I started coming up with a plan by:

1. Visualizing what the end performance will look like

• running into a two on two off contact with his head low and forward

1. Thinking of what small steps I can take to help me train those skills

• Teaching him to keep his back feet on an object (stairs work great for this)


• Teaching a nose touch (I plan to fade it later)


• Starting with him jumping onto the end of the contact and running into position…then moving him further up the board

1. Actually doing the work!!!!


2. Maintenance and proofing

Now, admittedly I’m only at stage 3 with him right now. People seem to think that retraining contacts is a slow, tedious exercise. I can honestly say that I’ve been re-training for less than a week and today it just seemed to click for him. Make sure you aren’t spending too much time obsessing over small details that likely won’t matter in the end! Otherwise you’ll still be re-training a year from now!

So you’ve got your plan and you’re putting it into action. Awesome, right? What happens if/when the past starts coming back to haunt you and creeps into your new behaviour? First of all, relax. People get way too bent out of shape about things popping up unexpectedly in their training. If you’re re-training, then it means that you’re essentially attempting to re-do something you’ve already taught. This means that your dog is likely going to confuse the two at some point in training. Be patient and stick to your new criteria. If you find you’ve hit a wall…take a break and try again later (sometimes they just get a little mentally stuck during a training session, as do we!). If the problem persists then you may need to change up your plan of action a little bit. Either way, be flexible and work with what the dog gives you. This is another reason I find that over planning can actually be detrimental to your training.

The final stage of the re-training journey is your ring performance. This is the real test. The goal is to make sure you get the new behaviour you’ve re-trained so that your dog learns that this also applies to a competition. Be strong here! Your consistency is the real test! If you let your training start to deteriorate you’ll be heading right back to where you started in the first place…fast.

Here are a few suggestions for passing the final test:

-      Have a plan for what you will do if your dog doesn’t do what’s expected

-      Enter some extra runs for the purpose of training (AAC only)

-      Try to use the same commands/body language you do in training (often trying to manage the dog’s performance throws them off a bit)

-      Realize that this is one run of many! (yeah I know it’s hard while in the moment, but believe me guys…perspective is a key motivator in successful change!)

Remember…“Learning is not a spectator sport” – Chickering and Gamson

Happy Re-training!

Jess Martin of Agile Dog Training

Entry filed under: Uncategorized. Tags: agile dog training, contact re-training, dog agility competitions, dog agility training, jess martin agility.

Lead By Example: The Dog Training Double Standard Is wanting to win a negative thing? Inspired by Silvia Trkman’s “Set your goals? Or just enjoy the moment?”